WALTHER GSP QUESTIONS & ANSWERS

1. Can you please advise if spare parts for this gun is still readily available and from where? Are grips readily available as well?

Yes, you can get spare parts , depending on how old the gun is. Usually, the only problem with them is when people have been dry firing, and not using a plastic buffer to stop the firing pin from getting damaged. Earls repair in MA. has parts for Walthers. You should think about getting the usual spares ie:  firing pin , extractor and main spring.

2. What are the things that I should look out for in a used GSP ?

Look at the barrel when it is taken off, to see if there is any corrosion in it.

Magazines can be a problem. The springs get tired, and therefore does not push up the next bullet. If the top of the magazine is badly worn, the follower slows down, and you would need to use a higher velocity bullet.

The GSP is very good for Standard Pistol, & Sport pistol, but is not so good for Rapid Fire.

Normally there are 2 magazines, and a couple of changes for the rear sight blade comes with the gun. Instruction book should be with it also.

The bolt housing of mid 1970s vintage is susceptible to cracking after prolonged use. Look for a crack at the end of the slots in which the bolt cocking ears ride. The source of the crack appears to be a ‘stress-raiser’ created by the machining inside the housing – which results in fatigue failure. Later vintage bolt housings had modified machining that eliminated the stress-raiser and the cracking. (My GSP, purchased new in 1975, suffered such a failure. The replacement housing I purchased had the modified machining.)

If a gun with a crack continues to be used, cracks will develop at the other ends of the slots. Photos of such failures have been posted on the Internet.

The guns post 1975 had no issues, the older ones could have frame cracking. Don’t use high velocity ammo, only standard velocity. I’ve never had to replace any parts on mine, its25 years old still shoots way better than me, never jams, does not have to be especially clean to function well, in other words bullet proof.

The GSP is stamped with a two letter code for the year of manufacture on the left side of the slide by the trigger. When A=0, B=1, C=2 etc, you will decipher the year it was made. Clever Germans!

A preference exists for post-1980’s GSP’s, and given the slide and mags are interchangeable with the .32S&W Long calibre, it’s a no brainer.

Further, the 1980’s GSP’s also receive the 2 stage trigger units that were designed for the last model of GSP, and for the GSP expert.

Avoid the pre-1980’s GSP’s if you can.
*the above information based upon a thread from TargetTalk